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Shop, Eat, Ride Hong Kong's Famous Escalator

Markets, Antiques and Restaurants All in Easy Reach

Nov 5, 2009 Valery Garrett

Century old buildings, shops crammed with Chinese ceramics, street markets, and hundreds of restaurants, all within easy reach in the heart of Hong Kong.

Step on board the world’s longest covered outdoor escalator. Opened in October 1993, at a cost of US$23 million, the escalator, stretching some 800 metres, has become an effortless way of travelling up the steep slopes of Hong Kong Island.

From 6am to 10 am office workers are carried from Mid Levels down to Central. Twenty minutes later the direction is reversed, and shoppers and restaurant-goers are swept silently up, until it finally stops at midnight. On the way a microcosm of life in Hong Kong unfolds in comfort.

Shop Hong Kong's Historic Markets,

Start by joining the escalator on Queen’s Road opposite the old Central Market, built in the 1930s. The section runs up Cochrane Street crossing Lyndhurst Terrace, which was notorious as a ‘red light’ district with European brothels in the late 19th century. On the right of the escalator is the city’s oldest street market which covers Peel Street, Graham Street and Gage Street. Flowers, vegetables, meat, poultry all on sale at popular prices. It’s the centre of the old neighbourhood with the feel of early Hong Kong.

Street markets have operated in the area since 1841 when it was called Middle Bazaar. In the mid 20th century there were 70,000 hawkers, as post-war refugees from China arrived to eke out a living as street traders. The number is much lower now but hawkers have always been a part of the community.

Browse and Buy Antiquesin Hollywood Road

A footbridge crosses Hollywood Road, the main street for antique shopping in Hong Kong, and one of the earliest roads to be developed after 1842. Rare Chinese bronzes, expensive Ming porcelain, elegant furniture and old silver jewellery mingle with ‘antiques’ made yesterday. It can take a good eye to tell the difference. Shops also line the escalator selling ceramics and folk art.

Restaurants and Bars, All in Easy Reach

Continue up to Staunton Street and enter SoHo, ‘South of Hollywood Road’. Once a quiet traditional area of Hong Kong, this has become a popular place for restaurants and bars, rivalling nearby Lan Kwai Fong, and said to have cheaper prices. Enjoy a drink at the street side cafes like Staunton’s Wine Bar and Cafe, and watch the world go by; it hums with life all day and well into the night. At the next junction, Elgin Street, is lined with more eclectic restaurants like Bistro Manchu serving Northern Chinese cuisine.

Historic Landmarks, Old Streets, Ancient Mosques

Carry on up, and cross the bridge over Caine Road, named after Major Caine, the first Magistrate and founder of the Hong Kong police force. From here the neighbourhood becomes more residential. Watch out for the oddly named Rednaxela Terrace. A Chinese workman, so the story goes, was given the task of painting the name, Alexander Terrace, but the thin paper meant he read it from the wrong side!

Leave the escalator at Orange Tree restaurant outside the iron gates of the Jamia Mosque, the first mosque to be established in Hong Kong. There are over 100,000 Muslims in the territory, about half of Chinese descent. Many are businessmen who have lived here for generations. The present building, with its arched stained glass windows, and turrets, dates to 1915. Pause for a view of Hong Kong and the harbour below, before strolling down to the crowds of Central.

The copyright of the article Shop, Eat, Ride Hong Kong's Famous Escalator in S Asia/China Travel is owned by Valery Garrett. Permission to republish Shop, Eat, Ride Hong Kong's Famous Escalator in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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