Shopping For a Chinese Cheongsam
Where To Buy a Silk Embroidered Cheongsam in Hong Kong
Oct 27, 2009
In movies and on the catwalk, the cheongsam, also known as the qipao, continues to take centre stage. Figure hugging and sexy, the iconic dress has survived since its birth in Shanghai in the 1920s to its rebirth in Hong Kong.
Highflying professionals and local celebrities in Hong Kong, as well as clients from around the world, beat a path to Linva Tailor Company, 38 Cochrane Street, in the heart of Central on Hong Kong island. Mr Leung Ching Wah founded the company in 1966 after a seven-year apprenticeship with a master tailor in Shanghai.
Shopping For a Chinese cheongsam, Choosing Silk and Embroidered Fabrics
Glass fronted counters and shelves are crammed with swatch books of coloured fabrics, frog fastenings sewn onto paper, and rolls of silks and embroidery. In the midst of all this stands Mr Leung, spectacles on his nose, and tape measure round his neck.
Like the cheongsam, with its mandarin collar, distinctive frog fastenings and side slits which can rise thigh high, there is a tradition to making the garment which has never varied. The first step is a careful discussion with Mr Leung, who will want to know when it will be worn. Is it for daytime, evening, or a wedding? Skin tone and hairstyle are taken into consideration. There is a large choice of fabrics, from printed and woven silks, brocades, velvet chiffon, even cashmere. Since western customers are sometimes unsure about how they will look in a cheongsam, he has many ready-made ones they can try on first.
The distinctive ‘flower buttons’, the little frog fastenings that are made to resemble the peony or chrysanthemum, are also chosen to complement the style. These are placed at the neck and down the right side opening.
Shopping for a Chinese Cheongsam, Measurements and Fitting
The next step is to take twelve measurements. Mr Leung does this in strict order, beginning with the cross shoulder measurement, and ending with the length. He writes it all down on a printed form and hands it to a tailor at the back of the shop. At present a high collar is in fashion, like that worn by Ziyi Zhang in Wong Kar Wai’s movie 2046. This gives women wonderful posture, but for greater comfort it can be turned down under the chin.
After three days the customer returns, and the garment is checked carefully for proportion and fit. All adjustments are made prior to the final finishing of the decorative binding. This edging is a distinctive feature of the cheongsam, and usually done by picking out two or three accent colours from the main fabric design. Then the dress is machined together and the flower buttons added.
Shopping for a Chinese Cheongsam, How much will it cost?
Having it custom-made costs about HK$2,500 and upward. Off-the-peg is cheaper: starting from $1500. Allow $5,000 and above for a wedding cheongsam.
Further choices are top of the range store, Shanghai Tang, which has outlets all over Hong Kong and in major cities around the world, like London, New York and Beijing. They have a tailoring service too and a wide selection of silk fabrics to choose from. At the other end of the scale, cheap rayon cheongsams can be bought in the Lanes running between Queen’s Road and Des Voeux Road also in Central.
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